French-speaking Canada feels like a whole separate world and is great to visit if you’re a francophile! Enjoy this mini travel guide to French-speaking Canada. This is one of many Mini Travel Guides, in which locals and expats share their favorite things with us so we can travel to their country and have as much fun as humanly possible.
Hi! I’m Kayla. I have lived in various places in eastern Canada, and have French Canadian extended family, but I fell in love with la belle province of Québec during my years as a graduate student in Montréal. I’m excited to share some tips on traveling in this region (with a slight bias towards the city of Montréal). It offers truly one of the most unique and enjoyable cultural experiences in North America!
I’ve seen it cited as one of the hippest neighbourhoods in North America, and I’m not surprised! It’s an exceptionally vibrant area of the dynamic and diverse city of Montréal. Le Plateau features hip bars/restaurants/shops, a rich arts and music scene, a particular architecture involving charming wrought-iron staircases and old-stone masonry, and les ruelles verts (alleyways-turned-urban green space).
If you can ignore the tourist traps in this area, Québec City hosts a beautiful, historic riverside “Old Town”, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Learn about the history of French culture in Canada and appreciate the rich cultural and language heritage that Québec has been able to preserve. To make the most of the beautiful waterfront location of the Old Town, top it off with a stroll along the mighty St. Lawrence River.
I highly recommend spending some time outside of the urban areas, and coastal Québec and the neighbouring French-speaking area of the province of New Brunsiwck is a spectacular place to do that. Whale-watching off the small Québec town of Tadoussac, exploring the rugged coast of the Gaspésie, and indulging in fresh seafood in the charming coastal communities along New Brunswick’s north shore will satisfy your nature-loving side.
Unlike some other parts of North America, eating and drinking is truly appreciated as a social activity here, and exploring independent cafés is a great way to enjoy the unique joie de vivre.
A culture of buying and eating locally produced/grown/caught food is alive and well. I strongly recommend checking out the Jean-Talon Market in Montréal’s Little Italy during peak summer – it’s North America’s largest outdoor market!
There are nearly continuous festivals year-round, from Québec City’s famous Winter Carnival, to Acadian Festivals in New Brunsiwck, to Pop Montréal (indie music heaven) and Montréal’s Jazz Festival (the largest in the world). There is always a spectacle to see and something to celebrate.
In my humble opinion, Montréal bagels rival – or surpass – the bagels of New York City. Buy hand-rolled bagels fresh out of the wood-fired ovens at either of the two most famous bagel shops (St. Viateur or Fairmount) located in Mile End, an historically working-class Jewish neighbourhood turned hipster mecca.
Fries + gravy-like sauce + cheese curds. Need I say more? This bowl of gooey goodness is popular across Canada, but was invented (and perfected) here. Many restaurants and poutine shops offer unique twists on the classic, too. For example, foie gras poutine is a thing. Seriously.
Maple products are reasonably priced because the region is such a large producer of the sweet stuff. Pick up maple syrup (or maple sugar…or maple butter… or…) at a farmer’s market to get the best price. If you visit during early spring, usually around March, you can visit a cabane à sucre (“sugar shack”) to see how the syrup is made. A popular maple treat is the tire d’érable or maple taffy, which is maple syrup poured on snow to harden it and then rolled up on a stick to be eaten like a lollipop.
Many urban québécois, most New Brunswickers, and virtually anyone working in tourism/hospitality are bilingual in English and French (and quite possibly other languages!). However, it is a francophone region, so you may occasionally have a “lost in translation” moment. But hey – take the opportunity to practice or learn the beautiful language! It will be appreciated. While brushing up on my own French, I was told that it’s not the quality that matters: “C’est justel’effort!”
Eating (and drinking) outside is very popular during the hot summer months. Save some money on restaurant meals by hitting up a grocery store and heading to a nearby green space.
Like anywhere else, hostels are a cheap way to stay, but I really recommend renting a room or apartment through Air BnB to feel a bit more like a local rather than a tourist!
Related: Airbnb is always an affordable option and if you’ve never used it before, here’s a $40 credit towards your first booking!
In the urban areas, walking will allow you to experience more sights and sounds, plus there are lots of buses and Montréal has a fantastic metro (a.k.a. subway) system.
Thanks so much for sharing, Kayla! I’m sure heaps of you readers are from this area of Canada – what else do we need to know about?